I was ten years old and the most important thing in the world that day was the cricket match. India vs Pakistan. March 2003. Centurion, South Africa. My dad was in his office room doing what he always did on weekends — working on papers. I was his self-appointed scorer, running updates to him every few overs like it was my job.
My mom was in the kitchen and I remember the smell before I remember anything else. That deep, grassy, fried smell of hara bhara kabab hitting hot oil. She had been working quietly while the rest of us were lost in the match — that was her way. The kababs came out golden brown and crispy, placed on the coffee table in front of the TV without ceremony. Alongside them, two small bowls: a dark tamarind sauce she had made from scratch, tangy and sweet, and a bright green mint chutney, fresh and cool.
I took one bite and I stopped thinking about the cricket for exactly thirty seconds.
1 March 2003 · Centurion Park
My dad came out of his office for the finish. We sat together, ate kababs, and watched India win. I don't remember who took the last kabab. I remember that I wish I had.
This is the dish that started everything for me. The first food memory where I understood that what was on the plate could be as important as anything else happening in the room.
The recipe
- 1 cup frozen green peas
- ½ cup spinach leaves, washed
- ¼ cup mint leaves
- ¼ cup coriander leaves
- 2 tbsp besan (chickpea flour)
- 1 tbsp cornstarch
- 2 tbsp rice flour
- 1 tsp cumin powder
- ½ tsp red chilli powder
- Salt to taste
- Oil for shallow frying
- Boil & mash the peas. Boil green peas until soft. Drain and mash well with a fork — no large pieces should remain.
- Make the green paste. Blend spinach, mint, and coriander together into a smooth paste. No water needed.
- Make the dough. Combine mashed peas, green paste, besan, cornstarch, rice flour, cumin powder, chilli powder, and salt. Mix into a firm dough. If sticky, add a little more besan.
- Shape the patties. Divide into 12 equal portions. Shape each into a round or oval patty about 1.5cm thick.
- Shallow fry. Heat oil in a flat pan over medium heat. Fry patties in batches — about 3 minutes each side until golden and crisp.
- Drain and serve. Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately with both chutneys.
The two chutneys
½ cup tamarind paste · ½ cup sugar · 1 tsp cumin powder · ½ tsp red chilli powder · Salt · 2 cups water. Combine in a saucepan, boil then simmer 15–20 minutes until thick. Strain and cool. Keeps in the fridge for two weeks.
1 cup mint leaves · ¼ cup coriander · ¼ cup yoghurt · 1 green chilli · ¼ inch ginger · Salt. Blend until smooth. Add a tablespoon of water if needed. Serve fresh.
India won that day. Sachin scored 98. The kababs were finished before the innings ended. My mom had already gone back to the kitchen to clean up. Some things you only understand later.