On the chicken curry
Growing up our home was largely vegetarian. My mom is Christian but non-veg cooking at home was rare — my brother had a health condition and the house ran around that.
On train journeys from Mumbai to Chennai, visiting my dad's family, my mom would open her non-veg dish and share it with everyone in the compartment the way you do on long train rides. I ate my tamarind rice and lemon rice at the other end. I was in fourth or fifth standard and the smell of chicken was too potent for me — I genuinely couldn't handle it. If my mom touched me or kissed me after eating chicken, I would go wash that spot with water. That is how strong the aversion was.
Years later, on a random Sunday at home, I cooked a chicken curry. A proper one — bone-in thighs, Kashmiri chilli, coconut milk. I don't eat chicken. I cooked it for her.
On the mushroom ghee roast
About eight years ago, five of us took a train from Chennai to Mangalore — the first leg of a trip to Gokarna. We reached Mangalore early in the morning, got off the train, and just started walking. When we found a tucked-away AC restaurant near the station, my friends ordered rava-coated fish fry. I ordered mushroom ghee roast with plain rice and kori roti.
I had never eaten it before. It was one of those dishes where you immediately start thinking about how to make it at home. When I got back to Chennai I researched the ingredients, worked out the method with whatever I had available, and made my version. It's been my mushroom dish ever since.
Both dishes — the chicken curry and the mushroom ghee roast — ended up on the same table that Sunday. Along with jeera rice. A full meal, made from scratch, for the people at home.
Three recipes. One meal.
- 500g chicken thighs, bone-in, skin removed
- 1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder
- ½ tsp turmeric
- Salt to taste
- 1 tbsp oil
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 2 tomatoes, finely chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 inch ginger, grated
- 200ml coconut milk
- 2 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder
- 1 tsp turmeric
- 1 tsp coriander powder
- 1 tsp garam masala
- Salt to taste
- 2 tbsp oil
- 1 sprig curry leaves
- Marinate the chicken. Combine Kashmiri chilli powder, turmeric, salt, and oil. Coat chicken thoroughly. Leave for at least 30 minutes.
- Sear the chicken. Heat oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Sear marinated chicken until sealed and coloured — about 3 minutes per side. Remove and keep aside.
- Build the base. In the same pan, add curry leaves, then onion. Cook 7–8 minutes until deep golden. Add ginger and garlic; cook 2 more minutes.
- Add the tomato masala. Add tomatoes, Kashmiri chilli powder, turmeric, coriander powder, and salt. Cook until tomatoes break down completely and oil separates — about 8 minutes.
- Braise the chicken. Add the seared chicken back. Add ½ cup water. Cover and cook on medium heat for 15 minutes.
- Coconut milk — low heat only. Add coconut milk. Gentle simmer from this point — do not boil. Add garam masala. Simmer uncovered 5 minutes until slightly thickened.
- Taste and serve.
- 250g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
- 2 tbsp ghee
- 1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 1 tsp coriander powder
- ½ tsp garam masala
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- ½ tsp black pepper
- Salt to taste
- 1 generous sprig curry leaves
- Juice of half a lemon
- Ghee and curry leaves. Heat ghee in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Add curry leaves — they will crackle immediately.
- Fry the garlic. Add garlic; fry 30 seconds until fragrant.
- Mushrooms — do not touch. Add mushrooms in a single layer. Do not stir immediately. Let them sit and colour on one side for 2 minutes.
- Toss and colour. Once the underside is golden, toss and cook another 2 minutes.
- Add spices. Add Kashmiri chilli powder, turmeric, coriander powder, black pepper, and salt. Toss to coat every piece.
- High heat finish. Cook on high heat 3–4 minutes, tossing occasionally, until mushrooms are well coated and slightly dry.
- Garam masala and lemon. Add garam masala, toss once. Finish with a squeeze of lemon. Serve immediately.
- 1.5 cups basmati rice, soaked 30 min and drained
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 1 tbsp ghee
- Salt to taste
- 3 cups water
- Toast the cumin. Heat ghee in a pot. Add cumin seeds; let them splutter — about 30 seconds.
- Toast the rice. Add the drained rice and fry gently for 2 minutes, stirring to coat each grain.
- Cook covered. Add water and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to the lowest heat, cover tightly, and cook for 15 minutes. Do not lift the lid.
- Rest and fluff. Rest 5 minutes off heat. Fluff with a fork and serve.